Out of Cambodia

Today, we begin a 2-day transfer of flights, brief hotel sleeps and eventually land in Phuket, Thailand for beach time before we have to leave Asia.
I want to tell you about Cambodia, but it's hard to know what to tell and what to leave out. I may have all day due to a flight scheduling blond moment, but you may not.
I can tell you that when I first stepped out of the Tuk Tuk at Angkor Wat and looked at that ancient work of man, my first thought was, "I'm not going to be able to describe this. People will have to come see for themselves."
That sense has stayed with me as traveled through this region. But, let me try to give you a sense of some of it through a short vignette.
We stepped out of the Tuk Tuk around 6:30 am actually a little chilled for the first time in forever by the ride through the dark on the road over-arched with jungle trees. We stood in first light looking at giant faces smiling benevolently down on us from 4-sided towers.

Bayon at dawn

The only noise came from the jungle around us as birds woke and frogs sang. We were alone at Bayon and able to drink in its magnificence. Wrapped in our individual experiences, we soon parted ways and I found myself alone wandering around the lower levels. All around are piles of stone awaiting placement in the restoration.
I came to a stairway up, but could hear bats screeching inside and the entrance was covered in guano, so I chanced that another way up would appear on another side. I found another stair and climbed up one level. It seemed a confined space, so I immediately went up the next level. A few other people had joined us now and as I walked around the top level staring into the eyes of those giant faces, I encountered women where Buddhas sat cleaning the offering sites and making new offerings.

Buddha and glowing faces of Bayon.

Finally, the sun rose high enough to light the faces of Bayon and turn them golden. I began my decent and stopped by a large Buddha to have my breakfast. I began by removing my shoes and taking a drink of water. Then I decided that if I was going to eat in the presence of Buddha, I could at least share. I took one of the plain cookies I had and offered it to Buddha on my knees and through hands pressed together. I said good morning, thanked him for the blessings already received and those that may yet come. Then I gave a small drink of water to the spontaneous life taken root beside him.
As I sat to eat, this Buddha's caretaker arrived to tend him. He took away my offering within minutes of my having placed it. Already the spot was teeming with ants.

Breakfast with Buddha before his caretaker arrived.

I watched this man as he swept the area, cleaned out the incense burner, dusted Buddha and made his offering. It was devotion at work. Meanwhile, the faces above us shone golden in the rising sun.
By that time, the tourists were coming in busloads and I watched many people pass by this Buddha. Without fail, the only people who acknowledged him were Asian and few of those. But, one Asian family of three had a little girl that was very excited to see Buddha. She wanted very much to make an offering. She must have been about 5. Her parents, of course, allowed her to make an offering and took a picture if her with Buddha. Sweet does not do justice to describe the scene.
By the time I got up to move on, I had a feeling of tranquility, blessedness and gratitude... and heat.
The day had broken, the hordes had arrived and the guards and guides were at their posts. Just outside where I sat, the Tuk Tuks, buses, cars, bicycles and hawkers were swarming.
Only the Buddha's caretaker and I even noticed when I went back to on my knees to thank Buddha for his company over breakfast and walked out the archway into the din. Although, I think the guards can tell somehow when you've take the time to truly experience a place; they smile knowingly at you.

Knowing smiles here too.